
Sunday, April 29
A book gives me mood so I select book I want to read during my travel carefully. This travel I need something light for soul but also provides me new horizon. I chose The Global Soul by Pico Iyer, a good friend gave me months ago and I haven’t read a chapter. This book is also my homework before – if possible – I see the author in Ubud next month. I have to have knowledge of what he writes and his style.
I hadn’t even started my book when I felt global souls around me. Flight to Bali is always special. Sometimes we see many Chinese, or many Indonesians, with some foreigners (Jakartan of course) sure but today I saw a lot of foreigners and… tourists although the flight was not a connecting flight.
I saw many multicultures – that’s how Iyer puts it – French man with Indonesian partner and French kid. A couple sat next to me was Japanese, or at least they spoke Japanese, but the girl looked very much Indonesian and the guy looked like mixed of Japanese and Western. An Italian lived in Bali (that’s what I learned from his conversation in bus) and many other faces I could not recognize the origin.
I read almost a chapter during the flight. It’s a nice book about Iyer’s travel experience participating writer’s festivals across the globe. He observed how multiculture people live in many places, how they adapt to search for home – far from their origin. He also tells how mixed culture shapes them physically and spiritually. It’s interesting. Iyer’s writing is deep and not short – quite elaborative – so I felt more like reading an anthropology textbook. Actually, I jumped three chapters that I assumed it consists of independent chapters. I wanted to start with something closer to my reality. Anyway, of course I will continue reading when I can during my travel. Remembering that I only have time to read when I travel :-)
Hotel in Bali is full, that’s what I knew from calling at least six hotels yesterday. I had my list in the web open and called it one by one hotels I felt click with. I didn’t have experience staying in Kuta area so I needed to study and went thru a long list of hotels with strange name. That’s when I realized that selecting name / brand for a business is very important especially when we have our business name in a list without even a picture or a bit of description. People only go to name that tickles their inspiration, has nice association, or sort of.
I called a hotel located in an alley of Kuta main road, Jalan Kartika Plaza. I don’t mind staying in an alley because I like walking. But my taxi driver from airport didn’t think so, he said that I would walk too far because the location of my hotel is kind of remote. He suggested me other hotel that I just trusted him to give me best choice. We passed my hotel and I agreed with him, it’s a long walk to get taxi.
This hotel is close to Kuta square, the heart of Kuta shopping area. The location is hidden behind a big tree so we could only see the open-air restaurant. I gave it a try. I checked three rooms and am happy with the one I chose. The room it’s spacious with a small seating area, the bathroom is more than okay because it looks new with marble, bathtub, and shower tray with curtain. Hooray! Closet is white too! Later I found the towel is white, fluffy okay, and smells good! Those are factors that make a hotel five stars to me. So I stay in a half price hotel, thank to fully booked hotels then!
SUS asked me to join her with PDO and a couple friends visiting a museum in late afternoon. It’s perfect. I spent time by shopping in Seminyak. The silver beads shop was closed but the stone shop was ever open (except in Nyepi day they said). I went through the stones thoroughly this time and only selected exotic and unusual stone. I ended up buying many strands, again. I could not help it. I guess it would be my last buying till summer over. I have to sell at least 60% of my ready stock before buying materials more.
They picked me up in the street by the stone shop. We were driven to Nusa Dua in high speed. I was shaken in the very back of Kijang car where I sat as junior and the tiniest person in the car :-) I was happy though like a pet taken by the owner jalan-jalan. I felt so because I had to crawl from the back door to my seat ha ha.. It was fun but I was dizzy because the driver drove carelessly with lots of braking.
Anyway, we arrived at Museum Pasifika in Nusa Dua safely and in time before closed at 18:00. The building doesn’t look appealing from outside, it’s massive although neat and nice. But inside it’s wow! It’s a huge space with 11 rooms: 10 rooms with paintings and 1 room with tribal art from Vanuatu. I feel that this is the best non-contemporary painting collection I've ever been. I have been to many private collectors place: museum or simply house but this one is… amazing. I felt like flipping through Christie’s or Sotheby’s catalog and the painting becomes alive before my eyes. I could see the real colors, the texture, aaah… The best!
Each room has different theme like foreign artists lived in Indonesia, foreign artists lived in Bali; artists paint Bali, Myanmar and Cambodia, China, Japan; bark cloth art, and the Vanuatu art that looks similar to Papuan. Not many Indonesian maestros in the collection, now I could not even recall (Nyoman Gunarsa, Made Wianta, and Affandi?). I only remember my favorite Covarrubias (first time I saw many of his paintings), Theo Meier (always best in style and color), a lot of Arie Smit of course (the longest foreign artist living in Bali, he is over 90 now); many European like Strasser, Rizek, Dooijeward,…; and I learned about paintings and sculptures by Emile Ambron because they have many of his, almost one room I believe. Ambron is amazing!
We didn’t have much time because it’s close to 18:00 but it’s worth visiting. I would definitely come again next time and go through one by one. The poor thing about the museum is no air-conditioner. While I care about the visitors, I most care about the painting’s condition later. They are in super condition now but the museum is just opened 8 months. Nusa Dua is humid and hot almost all year long and some works are on paper. I understand that air-conditioner and good lighting will cost them a lot but the paintings are already treasure, they should have unlimited budget to preserve them.
Weather was okay for me but not for women over 50 :-) They melted. We chose the right place to enjoy sunset from afar. Amanusa hotel is super romantic with monochromatic color even the bougainvillea color is chosen only pale orangy and frangipani is white of course. We sat in an open-air cafe with oil lamps looking out to the sea. Aaaah…
I just met SUS and PDO’s friends this time. They are their friends from India years and flew from New Delhi every year to meet the couple. As this is the last opportunity to see the couple in Bali officially (not in holiday context), they came this time. I liked the couple, they speak the art jargon of Indonesia. They got their knowledge from their short visits every year for six years and many coffee-table books! They know Made Wijaya, Linda Garland, and of course a lot of Indonesian maestros. What I like to know is.. they must have been interested in Indonesian art and that is good!
We talked a lot about many things aside of art. They are global souls. MTA is Nicaraguan, MIS is Indian, SUS is Mexican half French, and PDO is Mexican. It interests me that they speak Spanish of course, but MTA speaks English with thick Indian accent while MIS understands Spanish. SUS used a lot of Indonesian that the other couple also understands, also Spanish, and French for certain expressions. And I kept my Indonesian some times, like I always do when I’m with foreigner friends, and surprisingly they understood. Well, they are in Indonesia, speaking a bit of local language is necessary :-)
I took them to a 24-hour German restaurant in Legian. We were too late to get ‘normal’ restaurant open but we didn’t feel like eating in hotel. SUS was excited to hear sausage. It’s my favorite restaurant because of the atmosphere. A bit odd though because the setting is like warung by sidewalk. It is by sidewalk but it’s definitely good warung with long bench and good bar. The sausage and desserts were super. We were satisfied with our last minute supper.
My half day in Bali was super global…
Photo of the museum.